Monday, April 13, 2009

Easter in Kenya

Thanks for the Easter posts McConnons! I missed you all yesterday. Although Easter here was really fun too. I woke up late that morning because the night before some friends and I were out all night (bars and discos don't close til 5 a.m... either that or they don't close at all). After my host sister had tried knocking on my door and calling my name, Mama finally sent me a text about a half hour before we had to go that said "hi we are getting ready for church are you okey?" It was funny, cause no one sleeps past about 7 a.m. in my house (except for me, of course, although the heat usually wakes me up by about 8). The majority of Kenyans are Christian, so the Easter holiday is big here. Friday and Monday are national holidays and most offices and schools are closed. My host family is Catholic, so they celebrated as well. We all went to church at 10 a.m., where there were hundreds of people crammed into a church the size of...well...the size that isn't supposed to fit that many people. The service lasted until 1 p.m., with lots of singing and dancing and sweating and more sweating. It was probably about 90-some degrees in there, let me tell you. After the service we went home and had lunch and just hung out for a while before two of my host sisters and I took 4 of the grandkids down to the beach for all the Easter discos. The whole weekend is literally one big party here, with giant signs all over the place advertising party after party. One sign near my house read something like, "Good Friday Party: Go-Go Dancers at 10 p.m." Slightly ironic? When we got there, the beach was absolutely packed. It was like walking through the state fair, but on the white sand of the Indian Ocean with hip-hop music blaring and camels weaving through the crowd (of Africans, not Minnesotans). We went to a disco called Surfside where people danced all night, even the kids. It was nice to be on the edge of the ocean, where we could catch some cool breezes and have some relief from the heat. We eventually grabbed a matatu home at around 9 p.m. because the 3-year-old fell asleep (miraculously, amid the blaring hip-hop and noisy crowd).

The previous weekend some friends and I caught a bus, and then a ferry, to Lamu -- an island off the northern coast of Kenya that's one of the oldest and most preserved Swahili towns in Kenya. It was absolutely beautiful, with over 12 kilometers of beach and old, traditional structures from hundreds of years ago. There are only two cars on the whole island -- instead everyone uses donkeys for transportation. Everywhere you walk there's donkeys just chilling by themselves, not tied to anything, or wandering along the beach without anyone with them. A couple guys we hung out with there said that when they're not using them, people just let their donkeys wander and eventually they'll come home again. It's so sweet how they treat them almost like pets. There's even a donkey hospital on the island! And trust me, that's pretty amazing in a country where it's often hard to find a decent people hospital. After a late night swim one night I rode our friend's donkey named Beyonce to get some nyama choma (barbequed meat) in the wee hours of the morning along the coast of the Ocean. It was amazing. His other donkeys, among them Obama and Shakira, were already at home asleep for the night. It was a pretty relaxing weekend in all, filled with lots of swimming, fresh fish-eating, and boating on a traditional dhow (like a sailboat).

Before I go, I have a quick note for the Bye-Nagels... The other day I was packed in the back of a crowded matatu when an old Backstreet Boys song came on the radio. For a moment there, I almost thought I was in the back of your mini van, squished between Kyla and Kyri and Katie and Krista in Germany, not in Kenya. :)

8 comments:

  1. Haha I like the donkeys' names!

    That sounds really fun! A pretty big contrast with Easter weekend in Madison, pretty dead since everyone goes home...

    -Devin

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  2. Hi B! I really want to see you riding a donkey! But don't even think about a donkey for a pet here at home! Also, I am amazed at the 3 hour Easter service! I think you originally intended to get out of the city - away from the hustle bustle - and into the quite, peaceful countryside. But the more I hear about the all-night discos and the crowded beaches, I wonder if you are getting what you wanted?! But it sounds like you are really loving your host family and relatives and that you are enjoying the activities even if they involve lots of people. Take care, Dad

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  3. B! Wow, it sounds like Easter is a really fun, exciting time in Kenya! I was wondering how they celebrated when I thought of you yesterday. That is very interesting that Friday and Monday are also national holidays. I imagine a disco on the beach in Africa on Easter evening is an experience you'll never forget!
    And the island...Lamu...sounds like a beautiful place! That is so cool that you rode a donkey! I remember thinking when I was planning on going to Haiti that using donkeys as transportation would be an undescribable feeling/experience. Its fun to hear that the donkeys are like family pets to the people there. I can't believe there is actually a donkey hospital!
    It sounds like you had a lot of fun on Easter eve, too! That is hilarious that your host-mama had to text 'are you okey' to wake you up!
    As always, I'm glad you are enjoying your experiences and of course, stay safe!
    Love you.

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  4. Hi Bridget,
    Easter discos sounds pretty weird.
    I will think about donkeys differently now.
    Your mom told us you are getting used to the cockroaches and other assorted things. Wow!
    I'm so glad you have been getting to the coast and the cool breezes.
    It sounds like you are having a lot of fun.
    We missed you Sunday.
    With much love,
    Kathy

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  5. Hey B!
    At lunch with my second graders today they wanted a story (of course), so I told them about you riding a donkey named Beyonce in Kenya. They loved it and so now they are asking for Kenya stories along with Elvis stories!
    Thinking of you....love, Mom

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  6. hi bridget: i'm a friend of kathy petron at the crooked lake library. i've been enjoying your blog. it sounds like quite an adventure. thanks for sharing it with us! irene eiden

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  7. Hey Bridget,
    I just wrote a long comment and then I could post it drat. Oh well so much for the technologically challenged. I really have been enjoying readying your blog. At times I can't believe that it is actually you that is there not just reporting from someone else. The island sounds cool as does the family. You are able to do so many things that people dream of but only dream and really afraid to do. I can't wait to hear you tel the stories.You mom and dad will have to hear you tell them at least 100 times to others. I remember the beach and sand at Mombasa as one of the most beautiful in the world.The tide really moves in and out and the sun pretty much rises and sets six to six, unless my old mond forgot. Can't wait to hear more you are doing an awesome job as usual!
    galen

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  8. love the donkey names haha! That all sounds like a blast... don't think I could make it till 5 am though haha. I can't believe theres camels and donkeys just wondering around, that's awesome. Miss you!
    -Kaela

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