Thursday, April 2, 2009

I've found that the longer I'm here, the harder it is to write blog posts. Everything that seemed new and different before no longer seems so new and different anymore, and it's hard to remember sometimes what I should explain and what's different from home. It's a good thing, really. I feel so comfortable here in Kenya, and more specifically on the coast. Today the program director came to visit me at my internship and reminded me that I only have three weeks left here, which made me so sad! I don't wanna leave my host family or Shanzu or Old Town or the Indian Ocean or anything. The comforting thought is that I'll only have a week to stay in Nairobi and then I'm free to roam wherever I want for my last month here in Kenya.

Tuesday was Maulid, an Islamic celebration to mark the birth of Mohammed. The women in my organization had their celebration on the patio of their restaurant overlooking the Indian Ocean just before the sun set. Because it was a special religious holiday, the girl I worked with suggested I wear a hijab, as all the women there would be wearing one (of course). So that day I dressed in a long black skirt and brought a scarf that she helped me put on my head. I was a little nervous at first, but all the women seemed to appreciate that I dressed for the occasion, and many shot me smiles from across the patio. For the ceremony, we all sat cross legged on mats in a big circular huddle around a finely decorated rug with different bottles and incense and ornaments on it. The women sang song after song, each leading a different part, with intermittent readings in between (that I could not understand whatsoever). Then after about an hour we stood up and a few women came around and poured rose water on our heads and painted scented oil on the back of our hands. I'm not really sure what everythng meant, but I sure came out smelling nice. I asked one of the aunties what the rose water symbolized, and she said she didn't think it meant anything, but that it was just tradition. We finished just as the sun was setting, and then we all had samosas and fried potatoes and donut-type things together, still sitting on the mats. It was really a beautiful ceremony, and it was so relaxing to be sitting outside in the breeze of the ocean surrounded by peaceful, loving song.

Last night when I got home my host mama's second oldest son's wife, Mary, one of the many relatives in the compound who have readily adopted me as part of their family, told me her younger sister was here to measure me for an African dress. Mary said she brought back cloth from Tanzania that she thought would look nice on me and she wanted to give me the dress as a gift. She also told me to tell her when I had about 3 hours free so she could do my hair (she runs a little streetside salon on the edge of the compound). I'm really excited about the dress, but the hair could be interesting... I'm not quite sure what she has in mind, and if she realizes how different my hair is from everyone else here. But I guess we'll see! Either way it will be fun. She's such a sweet woman.

Last week Patrick and Carolyn came over to attempt what is nearly the impossible in Africa: making homemade pizza. It took us about an hour at Nakumatt, the largest supermarket around, to search for ingredients that resembled food from back home, but we eventually made do. The main problem was that we could only find individual dough/crust-type things. And I have a very large family. So we arrived home ready to make a dozen pizzas, only to find that the oven, which mama hadn't used in over a year, was broken. That also complicated our plans for dessert: brownies. We ended up using a round frier-type thing that they use for chapati to grill/fry the pizzas, and once one was on the frier we threw a pot over the top to try to melt the cheese. One by one, we made a dozen pizzas! Well, nine edible ones...three were burnt to a crisp. The real problem came after... no one liked the pizza! I know, it's hard to imagine anyone not liking pizza, but almost everyone hated it! My teenage host brother and cousin, who will eat just about anything, were hilarious to watch -- they literally were almost gagging over it. All the kids said they'd had pizza once before and hated it. Thankfully mama liked it (we originally decided to make it because she had said she liked it and wanted it), but that's because she used to work in a hotel or something where she ate it a lot and got used to the taste. After dinner, and after Mama finished eating not only her pizza but the boys' as well, she helped make an over for the brownies by heating sand really hot... I'm not exactly sure how she did it but I know she heated the sand and then we put the brownies in a pot inside the sand with charcoals on top. They turned out to be delicious, and cooked in only about 25 minutes. Thankfully the brownies were a big hit! By the time we were finished it was getting late so Mama insisted Patrick and Carolyn sleep over. The three of us and my host sister, brother, cousin and Auntie (the house help) stayed up until past 2 a.m. playing different card games and laughing and chatting. It was so much fun. Everyone was tired the next day, especially the boys who had to get up at 5 a.m. for school.

Well, that's all I've got for now. Until next time!

9 comments:

  1. Hey B,
    I love that you have a new "normal" now that makes it hard to pick out what would have felt "strange" before. You truly are absorbing life in Kenya and making it your own, which is what this experience is all about.

    What a gift that Mary is making you a dress with material that she picked out just for you! I can't wait to see it, and the hair- well, that will be interesting!

    Your pizza story was great- particularly the detail about your host brothers gagging. I think it's so funny that both you and Kyri tried to make pizzas for your respective host families (albeit hers was in Nepal) with hilarious results. (Hers never got fully cooked- also an oven issue).

    Thanks once again for sharing great stories....

    Much love as always,
    Mom

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  2. Hi Bridge!
    Great posting! Really fun to read about how you are enjoying your host family and community and the Shanzu, the coast and the Old Town environments! I researched a bit about Maulid and that is very interesting! I printed copies of your most recent postings for Lou and Marcella to read. I'm enjoying Mother Jones - some great articles! I'm glad that Patrick and Carolyn can also experience your host family and Shanzu community. We watched an amazing public tv show last night about the history of how Muslims, Christians and Jews are all connected to the city of Jerusalem. Be safe! Dadio

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  3. B,

    If I come to Kenya and you have some crazy braids in your hair, I am going to die laughing. I can't wait to get there!! Hopefully, I can sneak in some American food. Any suggestions?

    Kari

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  4. Hi Bridget,
    Thanks so much for the great post!
    The pizza story sounds hilarious.
    I am glad you are fitting in so well.
    And I bet that dress will be beatiful.
    With much love,
    Kathy

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  5. Hey B!
    I'm so glad to hear that you are feeling so at home on the coast. With the multitude of family members that you describe surrounding you, it sounds like a very loving community to be a part of.
    The Maulid celebration sounds like it was a very special ritual to be a part of. I imagine that it would be very intriguing and relaxing to participate in and observe such a peaceful aspect of a different cultural celebration.
    That is so sweet of your host relative (I'm not going to attempt to repeat the familial connection) to offer to make a dress just for you. And the hair... well, you'll definitely have to post pictures of the final product as soon as it happens! (Preferably hair and dress together) :-)
    And by the way, I am shocked with disbelief that people don't like pizza! Wow...
    Love ya lots!!!

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  7. This comment is actually from Eileen. Bridgy, Bridgy, Bridgy, Just how many heart attacks do you think your mom and dad, (not to mention aunts and uncles) can take. No more rising from the Nile adventures!!! OK? It sounds like your coastal experience is going a little more smoothly once the digestive issues inspired by the Nile subsided. That is great! They must feel very comfortable with you to have you be a part of their Maulid celebration. That's a real honor. I'm glad you are seeing the micro loan in action. Sometimes it's the smaller movements that make a big difference in people's lives. Continue to enjoy your time with your new family and numerous relatives. Don't get too attached to Kenya! We love you here too! Eileen

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  8. Birdget,

    What a blog from brownies baked underground in hot sand, to celebrating Mohammed's birthday. You immersed yourself in an Islamic holidy experience!

    The pizza story underlies the cultural influences of taste in foods.

    From Wickepedia I learned that the birthday of Mohammed was not celebrated communally until about 400 years after his death, in the 8th century. The date also changes each year for it is defined as being on a Monday of the third month of the Islamic calendar, which unlike our calendar, is a lunar based one. It began as a Shia custom reserved just to the elite. But in 1200 or so it became more universally marked. The Sunnis adopted it as a holiday time later than the Shia.

    In fact the Shia celebrate it this past year on March 15th and the Sunnis on March 9th.

    When were your people celebrating it Bridget?

    The celebrations usually involve readings from the Quran and stories about the life of Muhammed. The celebrations are not to violate any of the sharia regulations. So no inappropriate intermingling of the sex and no consuming of forbidden food or drink. That may be why you celebrated with all women.

    Did men in the community celebrate in a different way?

    I hope your hair setting experience goes well.

    And how wonderful, hospitable and welcoming to have Mary make a dress for you.

    Love,

    Mike

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  9. Happy Easter, B!
    Well this is a "group posting" from several people at the family Easter dinner today at the Petrons.

    We all thought of you often and wished you were there.

    Moe, Colin and Christian say that you were greatly missed and that they have decided you are Jennifer Anniston's (sp?) look alike. They say to mark June 27th on your calendar for a shower for Moe, and that they are certainly glad to know that you are on top of the "DL" about family happenings- despite the distance. (I had to have an explanation for what DL was :) Jackie loved hearing many of your stories because they don't have internet and so have not been able to follow the blog. We printed out your postings for their family. She sends you a big hi and says to keep soaking up these great experiences you are having. Brian says Happy Easter, but wants to say that he's not so sure about those moonlight swims in the Indian ocean! Kevin says that for sure, for sure, for sure, this is the week that he will be writing to you (right!)., and Mike and Eileen said that they emailed you this morning. Kathy being the loyal "poster", that she has been, will post her own comment on your next post. All of us send you our love as always.

    Know that you are missed and thought of often,
    The fam (or a good chunk of us anyway)

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